#MelangeCouture: Schiaparelli Fall 2016

Elegance trumped the abstract 1920’s Paris Cafe Society - let’s have a pint with Picasso vibe.

Yesterday, Bertrand Guyon delivered his best show to date tastefully nodding to Schiaparelli house codes without being too kitchy or risking the psychological shallowness of costume. No this was about beautiful low-key embroidery, high structured blazers, considerate draping, and where elegance trumped the abstract 1920’s Paris Cafe Society - let’s have a pint with Picasso vibe.

Referring to the legendary circus collection of 1938, this AW17HC collection implemented surrealist motifs (of course), such a a Jean Cocteau profile sketch or a geometric Picasso like bustier, art deco patterns, and subtle embroidery of circus emblems thus stealing the gaze when on navy canvases of stunning evening wear. The collection debuted conservatively with a darker palette, followed by a tinsel like mini dress and then… BAZINGA - an electrifying Pink gown attracting attention from miles away! I think the International Space Station even sighted that one. Another “moment” was the A- shaped flared rainbow skirt, similar to that of Gucci, shimmying away down the runway like a poised Cirque de Soleil acrobat.

Unlike last season’s theme of a dinner party - very literally a dinner party, I think spaghetti was actually embroidered… - this collection offered pieces which were more “jet-set commercial” shall we say especially with an armada of red carpet ready robes. My personal favourite: an embroidered gold-leaf gown which stood apart from an ocean of fluid silk, floor skimming dresses.

The flamboyant and the subdued balanced each other like a well executed trapeze act offering heart racing excitement thanks to quirky touches of sequenced clowns, zebras, elephants and butterflies. A success and to Mr. Guyon - Encore!

PS. Can we just take a moment and appreciate the fact that the bubble skirt has made an appearance again? :O *Gasp*