#MelangeCouture: Christian Dior

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Breathtaking embroidery revealing texture to a cream palette | Photo: Yannis Vlamos / Indigital.tv retrieved from VogueRunway.com

Today showed a completely monochrome collection with the rare glisten of embroidery or sequenced paisley which all together was crisp, youthful, and conservative.

Ever since October, when Raf exited Dior - completely shaking up the fashion world (& triggering a welcome reality check to the speed of fashion)- the Swiss design duo Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux took over the reigns with finesse and confidently steered the helm towards steady waters. Thank to their immense talent and ambition, safety has been reached but made clear on today, the house of Dior needs new wind so to say to set forth in a new fresh direction.

Today showed a completely monochrome collection with the rare glisten of embroidery or sequenced paisley which all together was crisp, youthful, and conservative. The foundation behind it was the ever-iconic Bar suit influencing the structure of the silhouette and I suppose the almost retro-vibe of Black and white. While this is a classic and sure to be a dream when worn by a graceful beauty galavanting the shores of oh I don't know Mykonos, here is nothing particularly new.

Today’s collection unfortunately didn't hit the High C to put it in opera terms.

The pairing between the Roman sandals (used throughout the whole collection) and the taffeta dresses, embroidered blazers, full skirts… (well, anything haute couture) is awkward and encompasses the spirit of a non-couture shopper (more like someone like me when packing for my summer vacay). This isn't wrong at all but couture today is about selling the lifestyle, the dream if you will, and most importantly being strong enough to represent a brand across all business units - from nail polish to fine jewellery. Today’s collection unfortunately didn't hit the High C to put it in opera terms.

However I did really enjoy the variation of silhouettes - some shaping was sleek and minimalist, while you also saw puffed sleeves and full skirts. Also the difference in texture gave the 2 colours depth to them and reminded us of the ingenious work of the petite mains who are the true stars of couture week (although the meticulous work was extremely subtle). 

Overall, an elegant, classic collection but falls short of the grandeur of the house of Dior, emphasising that times for change are not only welcome, but needed when in competition with the global superbrands. This Friday Dior will announce the new head designer and it’s anyones guess who SHE will be ;) Times are changing and we look forward to what lies ahead!

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#MelangeCouture: Schiaparelli Fall 2016

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#MelangeCouture: Atelièr Versace