Autumn Winter 16
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Welcome to my notebook on the collections of 2016 Autumn // Winter. Here I will be jotting down my candid thoughts from the collections of New York, London, Milan, and of course Paris. Due to university studies in the southwest of England ( The English Riviera if you will), I will only be physically attending London Fashion week but will be watching the live streams courtesy of Vogue Runway - the bible for keeping up with collections. (R.I.P style.com) I hope you will gain an overview of the key trends and motifs and stay tuned for more in-depth articles of the “MVPs” of the season :)
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Milan Day 1
And the most anticipated show of the season (maybe even a notch above Chanel) delivered once again, with luscious, vibrant color schemes, over the top maximalism, and an exciting time traveling adventure. Alessandro Michele, the it- designer of our times - rightfully so - crafted an aesthetic which morphed together the poise of the 1940s, the swinging 60’s, a touch of Louis the 14th, a bit of ancient Chinese imperialism, a whiff of Medici swag, and some exaggerated shoulder volumes courtesy of the 80s. A complete rumble jumble of history, a feast for the eyes, especially with those sweet popping colors such as cotton candy pink and the razzle-dazzle sequence you can spot from a mile away. The shiny brocades elevated the “fake vintage” look, a balanced contrast from the whips of sheer, while the accessories including the oversized Grandma glasses, tights in all colors, and high high heels gave the collection it’s classic Gucci personality. Like Nicole Phelps so perfectly said, while Tom Ford was hot, Michele is warm and too be honest, who doesn’t like warm and fuzzy, time for cuddles and curling up with a gapped book and tea.
Ok - after watching the show, here are my key words. Ready set… Grunge! Seattle! Teenage Angest! Nirvana! Low key, low fashion! Imperfection! Los angeles! He was a skater boy! Long nights at the beach! Leopard Jungle Boogey! Asymmetrical structure! 1930’s silhouettes! 90’s Spaghetti straps! Checked on florals! Yellow! In a nutshell, full of personality and embracing the anti-perfection. In a world were everything is glossed over or photoshop, we are craving the little mistakes, the smudges, the evidence that we are human not machines. That’s where you can really see a collection of real human craftsmanship. Basically this collection is perfect if you want to embrace your teenage rebellion vibe, listen to edgy music and whatnot but still appreciate prettiness and looking good. And there is absolutely nothing wrong with that!
The queen of ultra-feminine frocks has returned and just in time for Sunday’s Oscars. If I was nominated and didn't have a dress yet picked out by Rachel Zoe, I would choose one of those incredibly delicate gowns with floral embroidery in a blushed shade of rose. The whole collection reminded me of Sleeping Beauty, due to the emphasis on wearable sleepwear and lingerie influences of lace and negliges, as well as the fairytale, magical forest inspired set. The barely there sheer and fluid floor length silks equaled a very romantic atmosphere. Overall, it was radiant, and light produced with care and with heart and soul. There is no one who does pretty more straightforward or as authentic as Ferretti - why change a wining strategy - for the sake of all girls who dream - don't ever change! :D
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LONDONAW16:
PHOEBE ENGLISH,
EMILIA WICKSTEAD,
TEATUM JONES,
NATASHA ZINKO,
ZANDRA RHODES, BURBERRY,
TOGA, BELSTAFF,
DANILELLE ROMERIL,
ISA ARFEN, MARKUS LUPFER
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Day 7
Probably the grooviest show she has ever done (and that is saying something) in terms of the psychedelic color, brilliant mix and matching of patterns, and the overall funk vibe of the latter end of the swinging 60’s. Labeled as Pop-edelic, I think the name just hit the nail on the head and is the most authentic interpretation of the 70’s we have seen this season at NYFW. Those deep reds and electric blues jolted a shock to your system and those jewel-toned velvets- dreamy!! What a dream indeed - or more appropriately to the show’s theme- we were all tripping on Anna Sui. Everything was strictly vintage - from the oversize mohair coats and the school girl mini rompers - but did it feel retro and gone past it’s expiry date? Absolutely not- the folklore felt fresh and you can guarantee Jimi Hendrix and Janis Joplin looked down and were impressed with this authentic “make love not war” revival.
Today at Kors we see a welcome juxtaposition of high and low fashion, where laid-back jeans were decked with flamboyant ostrich feathers and where tweed felt fresh and flirty - not dated and stiff. These days you have to mix and match to stay interesting (think about the development of street style). You are quite a bore if you are wearing a look from head to toe without any personal touches. It seemed that Kors channeled a bit from the Miu Miu girl - a little quirky and “out there” but translated the kookiness into the streamlined American way. Colored looks came across the best - especially those in sky blues and lime greens.
A celebration of Fritz Lang’s masterpiece “Metropolis,” today Josep Font reintroduced us to the superhuman - part human, part machine. The “it” robot if you will. Cold, impersonal technology mixed with heartfelt, feminine couture - a complex combination. Very Prada with bright tangy colors and a retro acidic wash. However it left a sort of bittersweet poisonous taste on your tongue - not because it lacked anything - but because it was such a well curated and accurate portrayal of an inorganic, impersonal, futuristic society. Overall, gorgeous graphics, faultless tailoring, juicy colors. My personal highlight? Those magnificent opera gloves in patent leather and embellished with bright, funky origami florals. (Imagine if the pink panther left behind THOSE gloves?!)
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Day 6
Even after 10 years, the Mulleavy sisters continue to perfect their renowned DNA of romance, magic and a touch of darkness - grim even. The girls manage to elevate clothing from something physical into something spiritual (as cheesy as it sounds) but you FEEL something when seeing a Rodarte show. You enter a sort of mystical dreamworld full of glamour and drama with a unsettling feeling of suspense. This season was all about over the top ruffle, and mixed floral palettes, and patchwork upon patchwork of contrasting textile and patterns. It was heavy on the maximalism but was still translated as graceful and that my friends is an art. Main trend from the collection? Gothic brides and desolate flower girls (I doubt Coachella is their thing).
So far, my absolute favorite show from NYFW. Maybe I am biased since I grew up in a melange of different cultures, but I adored the collection’s concept: culture of the world. A global uniform praising diversity and human craftsmanship and imagination. While the Chinese- American designer specifically references North and East Asia, Kazakhstan, Turkey and Russia– you could also see French lace and some european metropolitan street-style like the pleated midi skirts. My favorite looks incorporated oriental design and elements from Russian folk dress. In a world where peace is anything but certain, it is interesting to note that the aesthetics of these diverse cultures compliment each other so perfectly.
[/av_textblock][/av_one_half][av_one_half min_height='' vertical_alignment='' space='' custom_margin='' margin='0px' padding='0px' border='' border_color='' radius='0px' background_color='' src='' background_position='top left' background_repeat='no-repeat'][av_textblock size='' font_color='' color='']World leaders can learn a thing or two from fashion week. From the gorgeous patchwork and intricate embroideries - Tan put in so much care into this collection and it was an absolute treat..
Peter Coping is so respectful to the tradition and heritage of the legacy of Oscar de la Renta that on one hand it is incredibly tasteful, thoughtful, and classy but is risking not moving into the future and developing the DLR style. The collection began with a rather somber palette that was completely void with an Oompf! effect - (thank goodness for those killer couture gowns at the end). The muted colors craved for More but once the ball was rolling, you can begin to appreciate the direction. Combining modernity and streamlined American sportswear with classic French tradition, you could say it was the best of both sides of the Atlantic and perfect for the modern woman wanting to luxury but keeping with her busy on the go schedule. The high tech athletic fabrics were merged together with the slightly Rococo inspiration thus conjuring up an image of Marie Antoinette in 2016. “Let them eat (gluten free, vegan, lactose free, organic, no carb, low sugar) Cake!” A good show? Yes. A great one, no - and thank goodness for that! Last season’s spring collection was bombastic and you cant expect designers to one up themselves every season.
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Day 5
When first glancing at the collection in the cafeteria of the university business school, 3 - THREE- students (aged 18-24) came up to me and asked “Who did that?!” It’s almost no surprise as Rosie has evolved into the designing voice of the iGen because she not only gets us, she is one of us. We as millennials have the entrepreneurial spirit, of wanting to make a difference, and not only in terms of a career, but in how we wish to be seen. We want to be individual (Be yourself!) but still look good while making an entrance. Rosie deliverer again with elements from the tweenage 90s such as the chocker, crystal butterflies, ect. as well as her trademark oversized sleeve blouses, ruffled shaping, straight trousers, and unique asymmetrical shaping. At first glance you question if the collection was co-created or entirely based on Leandra Medine and the whole Man Repeller aesthetic, but no, it reminds us of tons of other superbloggers. Why? Similar style? Maybe, but I think more likely is that we are all twenty-somthings hoping to make our mark in the world - both in real encounters and online.
Let’s face it. No one does minimalism as meticulous and as… minimal as the Olsen Twins. The exquisite fabrics including double-face cashmere and sheared astrakhan do all the talking and when you pair that with with fine tailoring you are guaranteed a winner. Starting off with all black ensembles reminded me of the german expressionist movement - harsh, a bit eery - but then lightened up where at one point simple sheer slip dresses felt like a whisper on the model’s skin. You can tell in their presentations how much the duo care about their product and their customer with integrity in the detail.
While I adore Herrera, in my opinion this collection was too conservative and was saved by the finale of luscious evening gowns, which are certain to be the talk of the town, especially the bedazzled, purple number worn by Maria Borges. The collection ran the course of a fairytale, starting with uptight bleakness and concluded with a happy ending of a body-skimming column gown. The grey’s and muted colors lacked life, although the 3D printed flowers added that feminine touch we are all used to with Carolina.
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Day 3
Playful, delightfully modernist as well as refined, tasteful, and streamlined. Felipe Oliveira Baptista continues to deliver crisp ideas to a heritage brand, elevating the concept of an athletic brand. The poised minimalism brought back flashbacks of a simpler time when our parents or even grandparents boogied apres ski grooving to the twist and using well.. the word groovy. Perhaps they even said other phrases like “gee willikers” or… in a while crocodile, bringing me back to Lacoste and those fantastic graphic jumpers. The motif of the pixelated skiers merged together our digital generation with the past emphasizing yet again, how we are craving for a simpler time ante iPhone. P.S The velvet track suit is back! (However, I still believe there an international ban in place for any labelling of “Juicy” on the derrière.
The Wang Gang looked like they stopped into Chanel, ordered some black and white tweed suit skirts from the latest Roma “Fellini” collection and went ballistic with the personal touches: fringe! chains! fishnets! Mary Jane was the reoccurring floral pattern of choice and what was that? A Ralph Lauren embroidered corduroys? Well, just swap the poised polo player for the silhouette of a pole dancer and you've got yourself the latest motif. Classy no, but not cool or edgy enough to make a lasting statement on the real downtown badass babes who follow nothing but the beat of their own drum. Everyone looked a little unhappy, canning in bottled up emotions underneath those fuzzy beanies, but Hey-Ho the Clark’s Wallaby shoe is back and that is enough cause to crack a smile.
As exciting as compiling your pick and mix candy supply for the weekend, Joseph Altuzarra served up a delightful wardrobe of vibrant unexpectedly perfect mix and max. Inspiration and personality came from Saint Laurent muse and friend Loulou de la Falaise with her wonderfully unabashed liberty and uncharted bohemian savoir faire. The gypsy sense of adventure juxtaposed the post modern geometry, with paisley and romantic patterns gracefully layering upon nautical stripes. A spicy gust from the East blew the vagabond spirit through the handkerchief maxi- dresses and straight into the heart of the wanderlust soul.
Day 1
BOOM. Welcome to the new season and it started with a BANG courtesy of Yeezy staging a spectacle at Madison Square Garden debuting Season 3. It was a double whammy debut: a New collection Yeezy x Adidas and the debut of his new album “The Life of Pablo”. (Presumably Pablo Picasso - a legend who Kanye “modestly” referred to as his equal…) Whether Kanye wanted to or not the singer/designer has “stopped time” as BOF editor Tim Blanks pointed out.
Our currently bleak zeitgeist was so accurately portrayed: 1. The refugee crisis - hundreds and hundreds of “models” in canvas tents - all statuesque and washed blank of any expression 2. The Haves and Have-Nots - while the seas of models in the center of the stage looked tired, desperate, frustrated of fighting on the streets for a meal, wearing mostly earthly tone, the audience watching (more specifically the Kardashian- Jenner clan) were decked out in over the top luxury: fur, gold, diamonds, Balmain. When Yeezy made his shout out to his wife and sisters, it was almost cringe worthy to see this over the top opulence watching regular people for entertainment. Idk. That was my take.
The collection was of course, avant garde sportswear and more colorful than previous seasons. There were some very sellable pieces, especially some very desirable outerwear. Like him or not, Yeezy knows how to communicate in song and in design, and him, or more specifically the celebrity designer, is changing the fashion industry. You can almost feel those tectonic plates moving. Brace yourself.
There’s a storm coming.
The starting point of this collection was an anime baby white t-shirt actually sketched by Justin Theroux. There was a sense of mystery, dangerous, and being a total ninja- Hi YA! Edgy slipdresses, shady black velvet jumpsuits for the woman of intrigue, sharp cocktail dresses which were anything but girly. I loved the hints of Starman himself - I’m sure we will see a LOT of Bowie this season- due to metallic tinsel fringe in red and silver and costume references of early Kansai Yamamoto.
Two words- sluggish nostalgia. Very 70s (again…) but tailored, or better put, undone for the 21st century. Slouchy silhouettes balanced the sophisticated inspiration and is therefore perfect for the millennial business woman who has a total crush on Alessandro Michele’s revived Gucci. Lots of copper and sepia tones underlining that antique vibe
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Day 4
This season Tome went where the wild things are (remember the children’s book? Some of the models wore the crown of King Max!) and opened the curtains upon a dream world flooded with lightness, imagination, and adventure with the slight shadow of tragedy. I found parallels between the collection and the traditional uniform of a pierrot- a character of pantomime, playing the role of the sad clown, pining for unrequited love- due to the exaggerated volumes of white, and oversized knots and draping. The organic nature of the collection was a counterpart to the quirky surreal motifs which reoccured on sculpture outerwear and floor grazing dresses (such as the Cocteau eye - or is it the evil eye?) and proved you don’t need to be wearing the loudest dress to have fun.
The featured evening wear was light as a feather sporting unconventional cuts and gashes grazing dangerously north of the upper thigh in some cases and in others freeing up the shoulder. The best pieces were asymmetrical and forward thinking, while other more traditional dresses such as look 33 seemed a bit frumpy and something your Great Aunt Marge would wear. Incorporating the fine Nepalese cashmere (in tunic-length cable-knit sweaters) is consistently a strength from Prabal Gurung, and a key reason why he has curated such a loyal following (of course along with his ability to reshape the idea of conservative provocation.
Obviously, the gigantic fur coats and collars are an absolute no-go in my book.
Not a fashion show. Not a presentation. But an experience. A real live experience where the models were girls and the clothes were in action. Diane (The woman we all aspire to be: intelligent, confident, free-spirited) swapped the traditional catwalk with a party where the selection of supermodels du jour danced to Sister Sledge, snapping selfies, and twirled around a crowd of delighted invited guests. This is where fashion is heading - all about being part of a community, being part of the experience - whether that is a dinner or a flashback to a crazy night at Studio 54 à la Diane. Instead of watching and taking a passive role to the creations, you see the clothes in their natural environment, in movement. The girls were all smiles in 70’s inspired frocks, each piece carefully curated, in nostalgic prints and elegant jersey. What I adored was that the clothing had a true personality and made you feel good about yourself, kind of like a best friend as DVF stated. The quirky elements reminded me a bit of Annie Hall (but a LOT more colorful) while the hit was more Diana Ross: the finale piece worn by a blown out Karlie Kloss being a golden pailleted wrap, maxi dress. What a treat: Happy go Lucky style.
“Can you dig it?”
Day 2
The Aussie girls are BACK and boy oh boy you can spot this freshly squeezed collection from a mile away. If you were feeling the February blues before the show, Zimmerman served up a zesty pick- me- up of loose fluidity, bold color, tangy brocades, bright patterns, and a hint of old school exotic glamour. You could see influences from the arts and crafts movement, (more organic than that of Mary Katrantzou) India (due to the ornate patterns), and even a bit of early 70’s disco (look 15 had Bianca Jagger’s name ALL over that). While I adore optimism and feel good fun, I personally felt the fringe and pattern on pattern, on pattern, on pattern was a bit too much. Very beautiful pieces on a 2D screen - aka, perfect for your selfie on your iPhone screen - but in the flesh might be a touch too chaotic.
Wu presented a collection full of ups and downs, goods and bads, topsey and turvey. Meaning, there was a little bit of everything all over the place, perfect for the customer and her infinite needs. I enjoyed how it captured a full wardrobe with elements of business lady chic, athletic wear, delicate slip dresses, and a couple killer party dresses. Unfortunately, these different puzzle pieces failed to cohesively come together to make one grand masterpiece a la Wu but on an individual basis a pretty satisfactory A- job with a few super sellable pieces (can we take a moment and awe those court shoe stilettos? I predict they may become the new Gucci fur-loafer)
Josie Natori interpreted the 70’s in a new light trading bellbottoms, peace, love and woodstock with Goldfinger-like opulence and polish. The predominantly evening wear focused collection celebrated the class and poise of New York upper east side with metallic shine and the suave and sleekness perfected by James Bond. You could see elements from Natori’s background in designing lingerie: such as the meticulous lace and heavy use of silk. To sum up in one phrase: An air of old world nostalgia we are all desperately clinging on to.
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