Schiaparelli Couture Fall 2015
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A new leaf has been turned and it is Schiaparelli’s new creative Bertrand Guyon holding the reigns. While Guyon might not be the flashiest choice for the couture house, his resume can speak for itself outlining an impressive career at at Valentino, Givenchy, both John Galliano and Alexander McQueen underlining that in terms of experience none other compare! His strengths lie upon fine tailoring which was handsomely demonstrated in sharp 1940s inspired jackets and lushly structured (yet flow) evening gowns. Brocade trousers, skirts, and jackets felt very Arts- and- crafty and elegantly retro even though at times seemed a bit heavy in contrast to some more lighter pieces in chiffon. Also we saw the generous use of soft, graceful prints making reference to the work of Schiaparelli collaborators Bébé Bérard and Marcel Vertes. While the rest of the show was quite conservative and very wearable a loud screeching stand out piece was surely the collage-like fur coat in SHOCKING pink patches accessorized with a mini brass handbag the shape of a manicured hand - a surreal element must always be part of a Schiaparelli show!
Kim Weston Arnold / Indigitalimages.com
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