Chanel Prêt -à- Porter FW1516
Whenever walking into the Grand Palais it is as if drifting into a beautiful dream - where separating the fantasy from the reality proves to be an utmost challenge. For the youngest Chanel Prêt -à- Porter show, Brasserie Gabrielle became the illustrious venue (inside another illustrious venue) for a collection (tailored to reality aka the mainstream luxury buyer) which allowed the audience to feel like flies on the wall, witnessing a very Parisian brunch.
The bar was of carved wood, the tables clothed in white. Starch collared waiters professionally scuttled about with silver platters, delivering cafe au laites prepared by Baptiste Giabiconi with care and an illuminating smile! ;)
Karl Lagerfeld explains, ”I wanted something very French, and what is more French than a brasserie? And it had to be done by someone like me, because if it were done by a French person it would look like a patriotic act.”
The Frenchness of Bordeaux and Bardot filled the atmosphere, but what I found more remarkable was the intense irony of the show. Here we see a real- life situation. A cafe, a brasserie. With waiters and coffee (… and eggs, and orange juice) It is real, it is authentic. The models, fitting into the cafe- society with a sophisticated intelligence (I felt they would have stimulating discussions about various art movements and their impacts on society...) strutted through the brasserie with relaxed ease and once reaching their booths, flicked through their iPhones, ordered melanges, and chatted with their comrades. As an audience, we were given a chance to witness the clothing in real life.
We didn't watch a show, we watched a lifestyle.
While the models were having a fun time, we were awestruck at this ingenious occasion, others instagramming away! But wait? Isn’t this is an everyday moment? Well, a moment staged as a multimillion dollar production, the vinyl colored mosaic reminding us that this is actually a fantasy. However, isn’t life a stage anyway? Honestly, don’t we all just observe and judge one another - especially in a cafe or a restaurant?
Oh look what she is wearing! I’ll just sneak a peak- “Point at the picture over there so when I look at her jacket it won’t be too obvious!”
We all do these things and it’s fantastic Karl magnified this situation of the everyday. And how funny, since many members of the affluent audience tend to especially look upon one another - so here I supposed we were caught in the act!
But I digress - looking at the clothing (just clothing, not accessories, venue, model whereabouts), I would describe them as wearable, practical, and as Suzy Menkes would describe them: “even dull and frumpy”. You are mistaken if you think Mr. Karl is losing his touch - these are the times we live in! The collection should be "more day-to-day and a little more dowdy” hence why the puffer jacket has made it’s way to Chanel.
Like most of his collections, Karl creates the new. New silhouettes, new materials- leading to new styles reflecting our times and changing the way we dress.
So without further ado- an ode to the new.
The Mosaic:
The floor of the Brasserie was directly morphed into the poised aprons and bags, thus repurposing ancient roman art for modern sartorialists. This of course is nothing new for the Chanel runway - see the Fall/ Winter Haute Couture Collection - but it is new for us consumers keen to experiment with wearing new material. Mosaics: the sparkle in the eye of interior decoration is now the marvel to the outside world.
The Apron:
Typically tying on an apron is like putting on a uniform for a job or to protect your “nice” clothing from an unwanted spill - that concept is set to be challenged! A nod to all of the garçons of all the Brasseries, the apron tastefully adds an extra layer, covering dresses, pants, and skirts in the most opulent and meticulously crafted fashion- from golden sequence to ruffles of chiffon!
The Bag-
Without fail, Lagerfeld delivers on creating an “It” bag which brings a smile to our faces, just like his sharp wit! We’ve seen bags as milk cartons and shopping baskets, hola-hoops and rubik’s-cubes. Today we are delighted with plates, menus and the Chanel jackets becoming our favorite accessories and are sure to become Instagram stars (in their own right).
The Puffer Jacket-
Continuing with the house’s quilted leather trademark, now the puffer jacket has also been transformed by the Chanel aesthetic. Outerwear typically seen as sporty and not particularly complex or fashionable, here receives an elegant renovation.
P.S - This mid-height, two-toned heel is predicted to be the singular must-have item of Fall/Winter - sure to be sold out soon!
P.S2 - If any collection would symbolize the entire purpose of Modern Melange here it was! If you are more interested in the coffee society, click here!
