Graduate Fashion Week 2018

Since its launch in 1991, Graduate Fashion Week has evolved into the world’s leading event spotlighting the work of fashion’s brightest graduates. Founded by Jeff Banks CBE, Vanessa Denza MBE and John Walford, its intention was to unify both UK and International fashion universities and elevate the future of creative industries by bridging the gap between graduates and employers. The event has helped launch the careers of some of the most successful designers of our time including Christopher Bailey MBE, who was the winner of the first ever Graduate Fashion Week Gold Award, Stella McCartney, Giles Deacon, Matthew Williamson and Julien Macdonald. Held at the Truman Brewery in Shoreditch, this year’s Graduate Fashion Week saw 5,000 pieces of work on display from over 1000 students of fashion design, journalism, communication and marketing, with the majority stemming from outside the UK. The event attracted 30,000 guests and featured 25 catwalk shows, exhibitions from over 40 universities, live talks and workshops hosted by leading names from the fashion industry and the renowned Gala Award Show. This year’s judges included Diane von Furstenberg, who awarded the Gold Award, Oliver Spencer and Henry Holland.One of the many benefits of graduate collections is that they embrace individuality, with each creative true to their own vision. However, upon closer inspection one could notice various macro trends which pooled collections together. First and foremost was championing sustainability. Each graduate I spoke to described how their collection included sustainable elements and why - conscious design is the new standard. Many incorporated up-cycled materials, such as Rose Connor, from the University of Central Lancashire, who based her collection on up-cycled plastics. Also, fashion design student Francesca Ashby of UCA created her final year collection, titled “Not Waisted”, reworking plastic bags and tent nylon to highlight the amount of plastic polluting the ocean. Sarah Seb, from the University of East London, took a slightly different approach of make do and mend by reconstructing secondhand clothes. Encouraging sustainable design was The Considered Design award, the Vivienne Westwood sustainable and ethical award, and the Swarovski sustainable accessories competition.Aesthetically, many graduates leaned either towards a Post apocalyptic approach, focusing on exaggerated deconstruction, or battery loaded design with a vibrant 1980’s punch - often accompanied by appropriate synth-pop. Also currently reflected on international catwalks (and throughout Pop-Culture from film, music, and photography), the 1980’s resonate perfectly with the current zeitgeist and Gen Z: The #MeToo movement sparking a revived wave of feminism thus encouraging the return of the big shouldered power suit - padded armour for the corporate battleground or the dominance of athleisure, sparking references to neon-coloured aerobics classes. However, while the 1980s also witnessed huge spikes in wealth, similar to today’s booming stockmarket, students steered clear from promoting ideals of materialism and gluttony.Walking through the many stands and speaking to various graduates, I was deeply impressed at the level of talent and considered thought on show. These graduates are socially aware, conscious of the challenges ahead and intelligently balance creativity with commercial acumen. Their collections pay a testament to the leading institutions behind them, and especially the many lecturers and mentors who continue to develop the next generation. The best way to encourage innovation and inspire change within the industry is by supporting and directly working with new talent and it was a pleasure to witness the launch of so many new careers and have a peak at the future of fashion!Award Winners:The Christopher Bailey Gold Award, was awarded to Rebecca Wilson, a graduate of the Arts University in Bournemouth, for her menswear, womenswear and childrenswear collection. Her collection drew inspiration from Victorian working-class clothing and Victorian family portraits and embraced the often overshadowed beauty in the wear and tear of clothing. The Debenhams Menswear Award was presented to Hannah Gibbons, from the University of Brighton, for product development and textile design. M&S Womenswear Award was presented to Aurelie Fontan, from Edinburgh College of Art, who also won the Dame Vivienne Westwood Sustainable and Ethical Award Sponsored by Levis as well as the Catwalk Textiles Award. The Visionary Knitwear Award was awarded to Fraser Miller, a graduate from De Montfort University, and Jacaranda Brain, from Nottingham Trent University.The Hilary Alexander Trailblazer Award, sponsored by Swarovski , went to Evelyne Babin, from the University for the Creative Arts Epsom and The George Catwalk to Store Award went to Louise Clarke, a graduate from the Manchester School of Art. The Bonmarché Fashion For All Award went to Bethany Wainwright, a graduate of the University of Central Lancashire and The Clarks Footwear Award was awarded to Charles Mein, from the Arts University of Bournemouth. The TU at Sainsbury’s Womenswear Scholarship went to Jennifer Healy, a graduate of the Manchester School of Art with The TU at Sainsbury’s Menswear Scholarship awarded to Molly Hopwood, from the University of Leeds. The Boohoo Social Media Award went to Alicia Brown from the Leeds Arts University, the Asos Future Communications Award was awarded to Jamie Windust, from the University for the Creative Arts Epsom, while the Future Talent Design Award went to Charlotte Heley, a graduate of the University of Leeds. The Boux Avenue Swimwear Award went to Lucy Nolan, a graduate from Northumbria University, while the Lingerie Award was awarded to Daniella Jayes, from De Montfort University. Additional winners included Marta Kazmierczak, Edinburgh College of Art, who won the David Band Textiles, Sarah Fielden, the Arts University of Bournemouth, who was awarded the Mothercare Childrenswear Award went to and Hannah Lewin, a graduate of Birmingham City University, who won the Mothercare Catwalk Award.