Steven Tai: the first digitally augmented fashion presentation
Printed on a colourful replica of 500 patacas, the currency of Macau, the invitation to Steven Tai’s Autumn 2018 presentation read the “first digitally augmented fashion presentation” - a gesture triggering suspense and curiosity. To deliver on such an ambitious project, Tai collaborated with London College of Fashion, ILMxLAB (Lucasfilm’s immersive entertainment division) and Innovation Agency (FIA). The result was a fully immersive, digital presentation never before seen in the field of fashion.
Set within the Foreign and Commonwealth Office in central London, the presentation included a physical showcase of the Autumn collection, where live models interacted alongside an augmented digital avatar which (who?) was generated in real time using CGI. The live models gracefully hovered over the audience on a raised stage which featured a mis-en-scene capturing the bustling streets of Macau, complete with a quartet of grandmothers playing a heated game of Mahjong, a street food stall, and a leftover plastic crate of beverages. The bubble tea kindly offered to the audience also added to the illusion of being present in the Far East.
A street in Macau was featured upon the giant screen towering over the stage, along with additional hyperreal elements of leaves falling, random streams of waterfalls, and birds flying above, in front… within?
Aesthetically, Steven Tai’s vision for the season was a quirky book-worm taking on the neon cosmopolitan streets. Styling focused on clever layering, rich brocades, and patchwork elements. A sure sellout sensation will be the corduroy kitten heels with a value-adding ruffle. The combination of velvets, corduroys and silks brought upon an up-cycled look, and supported a mismatched aesthetic - feminine, flamboyant, intelligent. Of course it was this diversity of texture which made a particularly convincing case in real life and even more- so on the big screen.
Audiences also saw two Steven Tai designed garments exclusively on digital screens, driven by the unique LiveCGX technology. The presentation offered a progression in live performance which connected real time visual effects with human-driven expression. Steven Tai said “fashion is about storytelling. It’s about representing a concept, to sell a dream, or just selling an idea that is close to the designer’s heart. Having a digitally augmented presentation this season allows us and our guests to achieve and experience things beyond our physical possibilities.”
Instead of seeing the digital presentation control the live performance, it was the performer who controlled the presentation, engaging proactively with the audience, which became a dialogue between the physical and digital. Through this evolution of the traditional presentation format, the audience peaked into a future where clothing can be both physical and digital.
Matthew Drinkwater, Head of Fashion Innovation Agency added, “Immersive technologies are leading us to a new narrative for the fashion industry. Imagine a world where you can augment everything from the clothes that you’re wearing to the environment that surrounds you, in real-time. That is the glimpse into the future that this technology offers us. LiveCGX will force us to redefine what we experience in fashion today, allowing for creative possibilities where we are limited only by our imagination. We are thrilled to bring this experience to life at this incredible venue with the support of the GREAT Britain Campaign.”
This new dynamic of consuming fashion however raises many questions. What is real? What is fake? Do the distinctions of physical and virtual still matter? The presentation exuded various layers of value which added to the holistic worth of the collection. One question that I kept reverting to was the notion of place. It was ironic that the presentation was set within the depths of the foreign office. With the rising dominance of digital we are indeed entering foreign territory. Featuring Macau on a big screen set in the grand Durbar Hall in central London in front of an audience stemming from all over the world. Digital is breaking boundaries - national and otherwise.
"What is exciting about this collaboration with Steven Tai and London College of Fashion’s Innovation Agency is the opportunity to bring the stories and worlds that have inspired Steven’s designs to life by exploring augmented live performance as a means of sparking intimate and compelling relationships with the people and characters who inhabit those worlds," explainedVicki Dobbs Beck, ILMxLAB’s executive in charge. Indeed, connecting real-time visual effects and human-driven expression fosters an exciting direction for the future of fashion. Applause to all involved in bringing this ambitious project to life, to pushing the boundaries and being brave enough to go above and beyond norms!
