In Defence of Haute Couture

Tomorrow, along the cobbled streets of Paris, begins the always highly anticipated celebration of beauty, craftsmanship, and opulence: Haute Couture fashion week. A week displaying the latest fashions in truly the highest possible quality for the upcoming Fall season and for me and the rest of the fashion pack, a word to some it all up is put simply - special. The city becomes a fairytale fairground for the fabulous rich and famous who consider a new edit to their wardrobe, but in reality the next few days represents so, so much more. Haute Couture is the pinnacle of zeal, poise and talent within fashion and showcases the mastery of the world’s most skilful craftsmen and women. For example the average dress displayed at haute couture fashion week takes more than over 100 hours to create - and that is mostly by hand. Wearable art.

That is why in my definition of slow fashion, haute couture is the most “slow” as it gets (in the best sense), where each piece tells a story, goes on a journey, and is made by the hands of a person who is passionate about their product. (e.g Convert a slow fashion scale from 1 to 10 to H&M to Haute Couture.) Of course, to even be considered as haute couture is not only very specific but very selective.

According to the members of the Chambre syndicale de la haute couture, fashion houses must meet the requirements of:

• design made-to-order for private clients, with one or more fittings
• own an atelier in Paris, France which employs at least fifteen full time staff members
• have at least twenty full-time technical people, in at least one atelier
• present a bi-annual collection of at least fifty original designs to the public every fashion season, of both day and evening garments.

A brand labeled as haute couture is considered rightfully as the highest honour in fashion, but unfortunately the practice has been placed under scrutiny where people question if couture truly has a place in modern society?

I mean, today all of our commercial needs and wants can be ordered at anytime, anywhere and fashion changes at a rate of every two weeks in some cases (Zara) - why would you want to wait half a year for “just” a dress? And the more appropriate question being why spend tens (in some cases hundreds!) of thousands on a dress?

I am a university student and am by no stretch of the imagination currently in the market for the latest couture gown (well, let’s hope one day :) but I continue to passionately defend couture and its place in 2016.

We know that the amount of private clients for couture is a small (privileged) pool of gals so when looking at Chanel, Dior, Armani Privè and the rest of the bunch - the sale for couture is very, very marginal and by no means makes a substantial splash of revenue in comparison to other sold products (Ready to wear, Perfume, Accessories, Make- up). For example in the case of Dior, Christian Dior Couture only makes up about 5% in revenue whereas perfumes and cosmetics make up around 12%. While it may be the smallest “money maker” on the annual report, couture defines the DNA of the brand, sets the direction for the next season, influences the tone of other internal business units and of course sets trends in the arts around the globe. Moreover, the couture show from a marketing perspective constructs brand personality and offers the worldwide audience a glimpse into the, for example, Dior experience. A price can’t be put on this invaluable element which affects the bottomline in all categories.

Most of all though, haute couture let’s us dream and invites us into a world of beauty in many cases taking our breath away. I still remember seeing last season’s Gambatista Valli puff dress in tangy orange and feeling my jaw drop. A life without exceptional beauty and the promise of the spectacular out of the everyday mundane is not worth living. Especially in the volatile present, a few days of couture is a very welcome escape into bliss and an opportunity to appreciate the fact that when we put our minds and hearts into it - we as the humane race can make this world into a magical place. So for the sake of hope, dreams, happiness and craftsmanship - long reign couture!

I will be reviewing - Vetements, Atelier Versace, Schiaparelli, Christian Dior, Gambattista Valli, Chanel, Alexandre Vauthier, Maison Margiela, and Valentino. Looking forward!