Valentino Couture: Fall 2015
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A sun setting over the glorious rooftops of Rome. The summer breeze through your hair. Silence. iPhones at the ready. A choir of heavenly voices are heard as a long black silhouette emerges through those heavy, iconic wooden doors of the Valentino atelier in the Piazza Mignanelli. Reaching the almost empire waist of the first black tulle dress was a petite golden eagle, the symbol of imperial Rome, clutching a red ribbon. It was this image which was remarkably found on the ceiling of the house’s atelier during its recent renovation.
Let the symbolism commence!
(Goosebumps all around. The Valentino Couture show has begun and is already exceeding our over the top expectations based on the pre-show activities all around Rome including: witnessing previous Valentino couture f in locations such as the Biblioteca Casanatense, a third-century AD Mithraic grotto, and Giorgio de Chirico's apartment-turned-museum. Not too shabby. (?!)
Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli brought the Italian heritage brand back to its roots in the most idyllic, graceful, and not at all cliché way which is sometimes expected when being patriotic. No - Rome was captured symbolically, poetically where the Roman history and what it means to be Roman is not seen on the surface - but felt deep beneath the skin and that is the power of extraordinary fashion and talent. )
The girls moved with grace and serenity, golden filigree diadems upon their heads - an angelic appearance with a fearless attitude of modern-day aristocracy. Black was the predominant palette of the evening which was for some a disappointment but wait! Black is not only black. We've seen its transparent delicacy through whispered tulles and laces sometimes brushing the floor. We've seen black bold and full of drama slowing in heavy velvet and silks. Two opposite directions in one color - solemn, yet nobel.
Piccioli states “We also wanted to show the darkness we feel in this city.”
However, there were also deep red gowns, of course a color a tribute to Valentino Garavani (sitting proudly in the front row) but also the historical Roman reference to the cardinals of Vatican city, and the ancient Roman cults who would sacrifice cattle aka oxblood - Too much information? Sorry! Gold were not only the the necklaces and bracelets designed by Alessandro Gaggio, but into it was the color of Roman gladiator like minidresses, tulle ball gowns, and a remarkable 3D golden entwined rope dress.
There has never been a more beautiful tribute to the Eternal City and it was impossible not to understand the unbreakable bond between Rome and its couturiers. The standing ovation was well deserved.
Pictures by Umberto Fratini / indigitalimages.com
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