Feeling Bubbly with Dior
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My first impression of the Dior Cruise 2016 show was that the spectacular venue of the Palais Bulles overshadowed a fine, but not spectacular collection. The location of breathtaking ocean views and out of this world architecture lingered in my mind, while the presented less eclectic clothes seemed not to compete for attention. But here I am 2 days later, still contemplating about this New New Look and I admit I was too quick to judge. What Raf Simons is doing to the Dior silhouette is revolutionary (similar to Hedi Slimane’s take on Saint Laurent) and I apologize for not appreciating his vision immediately.
While I stand my ground that this cruise collection was fine- not great- compared to Raf’s previous symphony like collections (for example the Fall 2014 Couture) it did flourish with 3D technological textures, architectural structure, op-art cues, and juvenile plaids all brought to life with the ease and freedom engulfing the South of France and it’s long time history of creatives.
Antti Lovag, architect of Pierre Cardin’s Palais Bulles envisioned his work for all the ”joueurs et aventuriers," players and adventurers and this concept was clearly communicated through the cropped proportions, childlike smocks, knit onesies, picnic blanket checks and metallic patchworks and crochets. Wouldn't you say that Cannes and Saint Tropez are the playgrounds for kids at heart? :) I loved the 1920’s bathing suit silhouettes, swinging pleats, and the fur collage in a netted dress.
The checks which debuted the show reminded me of something a young Bardot would wear walking the streets (barefoot of course) and had an organic vintage feel to it, opposed to the finale look (save for the short hemline) which used laser cut technology to create captivating mesh for the skirt emphasizing the growing influence of technology on fashion.
Combining the new and the old was the return of the Bar silhouette - first full-sleeved and waist synched layered onto taffeta shorts pockets peeking out- and the iconic Bar pantsuit’s tradition protested by the pairing of flip-flops.
Also, Dior’s classic femme fleur was displayed through glittering, crystal covered florals while layers of net and knit, informed us that the sophisticated, hair in a beehive girly girl of Dior has long departed. The physically uncomfortable constraint of Dior's original dresses are also in the past, with Raf still showing poetic shape but now prioritizing ease and freedom.
When looking at accessories, we saw the fur stola, pointed 18th century booties, Roger Vivier influenced heels, leather flip-flops, and a sea of handbags where some seemed eerily familiar to a Louis Vuitton Alma or a Chanel Boy bag.
While the Palais Bulles will be forever remembered and will continue to influence designers throughout, this Cruise Collection will be celebrated and will sizzle and shine throughout it's season, but like all good things, fade like a hot summer’s day- but that’s only natural.
That’s fashion baby.
*All images courtesy of Dior
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