Alessandro Michele's New Gucci Girl
"Those who are truly contemporary are those who neither perfectly coincide with their time nor adapt to its demands…Contemporariness, then, is that relationship with time that adheres to it through a disconnection.”- Giorgio Agamben
As rare as a blue moon, somewhere between the hundreds of photographers, front row sun-glassed aficionados, bustling backstage professionals, nymph like models, blinding lights, thumping bass, click clack of heels, the “darlings” “fabulous”, and “oh my gods” - we experience a fashion moment. That moment was Day 1 at Milan Fashion Week and it belonged to newly appointed creative director Alessandro Michele and his revived Gucci Girl (who was desperately in need to be saved).
One could almost think the Gucci Girl has Benjamin Button syndrome - from Tom Ford’s unapologetic, provocative, sexed up glamazon to today’s wide-eyed and innocent teenage bookworm (whom we already adore!) This Gucci debutant is intelligent. She is poetic and romantic and is not afraid to write down her daydreams in her Moleskin journal. She cries at the heart wrenching stories of Austin and the Brontë sisters and if I didn't know better she is taking a year abroad from Milan to the English highlands (or prancing down the streets of Camden).
Miss Gucci is reserved and poised, and does not take selfies - her Instagram is filled with polaroid shots of said landscapes and candid pics of her equally cool friends (Lykke Li is definitely one of them). She is basically the ultimate rebel, who couldn't care less about the likes, the followers, and the “look at me attitude"- she has more interesting things to ponder.
Michele wore his heart on his sleeve and told an emotional story by creating a new identity which gave a lot of food for thought. Was it the Gucci identity? I’m not sure - but it was strong and targeted us good ole’ Gen Yers who have recently not identified with the more “mom” brand.
The soft, innocence of youth had a ‘Woodstockesque’ sense of freedom: floral printed chiffon dresses brushed through the atmosphere, long pleated metallic skirts were mismatched with sweater vests, delicate laces and sheer counteracted bold, clean cut androgynous suits cuffed by fur, which draped over billowy blouses welcoming the folklore theme.
The Gucci Girl’s accessories of oversize glasses, wooly hats and Parisian barrettes, fur lined Chewbacca-style slippers, and oh too lovely costume jewelry and broaches: all seemingly long lost treasures- maybe found again when rummaging through her grandmother’s attic. This is where the emotion comes in again - these items remind us of a long time long ago and have memories by fabulous women at fabulous occasions. These things (at the end of the day) may have been loved and cherished before (some dresses purposefully had creases) and in an industry so keen on pumping out NEW, NEW, NEW every 2 months (or shall I say weeks) the new vintage feel is welcome.
"What I am trying to do is to put something poetic into a powerful, iconic brand," explained Alessandro Michele backstage to Suzy Menkes.
With such poetry brings an air of melancholia, as the collection reflected upon the brands own (now wilted) youth, through classic Gucci references of leather loafers, the GG bags, the floral prints and reminded the audience that you cannot repeat your youth, but you can look back on it with a smile and a giggle and romanticize the good times.
And for us twenty somethings - facing a future of escalating debt, climate disasters, wars, inequality, unemployment - we are even more nostalgic about a time even before our existence. Just walk into H&M or if you are lucky enough to go to Coachella- the 70’s are everywhere and are an escape from today’s at times overwhelmingly bleak reality, so on behalf U30s:
Alessandro, thanks for the groovy vibes, the folklore, and for creating fashion which makes us feel something bloom in our hearts.
