Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda- Spring/ Summer 2015

There is Pret-a-porter, followed by Parisian Haute Couture, and then there is Alta Moda- truly perfected last weekend by Dominico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana at the world renowned Teatro alla Scala. The duo invited their distinguished guests to Milan for a weekend of opulence and grandeur, regarded as more of a family reunion than a “fashion show”. Live performances by the ballet master Roberto Bolle were adored, traditional Italian banquets were indulged, parties were celebrated, and the exquisite handmade clothing and “alta” jewelry were ordered and tailored to every clients desire. However, this season was not only reserved for the glamorous women; seduced were the male spouses and partners at Dolce & Gabbana’s first Alta Moda collection for men- a step closer one could interpret as Fashion “Equality”! The immaculate location already foreshadowed to guests what was to be expected in the clothing: Drama. Dolce describes, “La Scala is Italy—it is Verdi, Pavarotti, Toscanini, Rossini, Bolle. And it is more than Italy, too—it is Nureyev, it is Callas.”The Opera House’s artistic director, Alexander Pereira- former intendant of the Salzburg Festival, permitted this artistic triumph to take place in the building’s Toscanini foyer as well as the breathtaking performance by la Accademia del Teatro Alla Scala and allowed the replication of the 1950 program for “Romeo e Giulietta” for the finale ball gowns, which reminded me of something magical, yet surreal - surely influenced by Schiaparelli.  The theatrical drama of each gown was emphasized through the ruby studded shoes, fine jewelry and tiaras inspired by the Byzantine era, sensuous Venetian reds, Baroque gold embroidery, Burano laces, and full fledged tulle trains synched at the waist celebrating the splendor of the female form - a trade mark of Dolce and Gabbana.Opulence was made even more obvious in the head to toe golden gowns. Each model resembled a Madonna, an icon of worship and one could almost mistake them for stepping out of Gustav Climt’s “Der Kuss”! Accompanied with melodies from The Nutcracker, Swan Lake, and Bizet’s Carmen, it is not difficult to conclude that the Opera and Ballet were this collection's predominant influence. The grace, beauty, strength, talent, and most importantly imagination are not traits exclusively exhibited at la Scalla’s stage- but on the world’s stage, here, through the world’s most luxurious costumes ever created by Dolce and Gabbana. The collection was a success, but it was the manner it was presented which truly impresses me and which I think Parisian Haute Couture lack at this moment.The "show"- if you could call it that - lasted the weekend and it was a gathering of clients from around the world, enjoying art, sharing stories, dinning together... The 1 percent of the 1 percent were able to enjoy the moment, form and foster relationships, and ultimately witness couture at it's purest form in comfort. This is opposed to the rise of luxury commercial events, which is starting to be associated as a circus of those solely there to be seen, Instagraming to prove to the world you received an invitation, or running from one show to another not being able to stop and appreciate the magnificence of of the designer or the work of the "petit mains".So I applaud Dominico and Stefano for creating a collection surpassing expectations and reminding us all that in a world of fast fashion and commercialism, imagination, authenticity, craftsmanship, and the exclusivity of couture is the absolute foundation of our industry.