Dior Resort 2017
Something is rotten in the state of fashion and in my opinion it was most obvious in this season’s resort collections where the actual “collection” has become a secondary matter or a tertiary matter in fact or… wait what clothes? Racked even claimed that yesterday’s Dior resort collection “Has Nothing to Do With Actual Clothes” which is well…a tragedy. Brand has eclipsed product in high fashion - where Resort has become the battleground for the super brands to one up each other, spoil their guests with exotic locations. Cuba! Rio! London! to offer a glimpse into their imaginary worlds, distant from reality, which, this season, has reached a level of insensitivity and “fake” leaving devoted fashion followers disappointed.
I have just finished my final year of university at the University of exeter, writing my dissertation on What is the purpose of the fashion show? Conclusion being we live in the experience economy, the experience and the product are one and this setting of the shows does serve a vital purpose of creating exchange between audience members and sharing content. However history and the papers will remember the Diorient Express, Louis Vuitton helicopter rides, and driving around Cuba with Chanel - not the collections - is this inevitable? Are we simply pivoting into a new age of fashion? Must houses adapt and accept these realities? No one can deny the value of staging these brand events - but in my mind, the balance between branding and product has been skewed and when looking at yesterday’s Dior event it has become embarrassing, with an acidic aftertaste left on the palette.
It was called the “Dior Express” conjuring up old world charm straight out of the set of Poirot, with deep red upholstery, decadent interior, and gorgeous nibbles.
Dior Resort 2017 kicked off at your ever typical, English, pint chugging free-house - the Lady Dior Pub (Jokes) in hopes to give guests an authentic experience. The model bartenders sported Dior tattoos. The pub sign and topiary featured the classic New Look. Perfect for Instagramming. The next day the sister of the Orient Express left to Oxforshire from Victoria station. It was called the “Dior Express” conjuring up old world charm straight out of the set of Poirot, with deep red upholstery, decadent interior, and gorgeous nibbles. The bell hops were even dressed in Dior ensuring every inch a board was Pinterest perfect - identical to all National Rail trains… it was even delayed!
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And upon arrival at Blenheim palace? A low key fanfare to welcome distinguished guests-including Emma Roberts, Alexa Chung, Kate Mara and Beckinsale - all decked out in their Dior best.
Oh and then their was the actual show. Lights! iPhones! Snapchat!
Only a couple of world class editors used their notepads to jot down notes - Shout out to you Mr. Blanks! And then it was over.
I don’t mean to sound like a sour prune - I study marketing, I understand and love the power of branding - but what is the value of branding if that’s all you have left? It’s like you go on this glorious treasure hunt, find the clues, uncover a big box wrapped in the most exquisite wrapping paper, bows and all, and open it and discover a package of Wrigley’s spearmint gum. We are living in the experience economy, which brings of course many benefits, I mean who wouldn't want to be treated in designer clothes, but in the long run the mirage will be uncovered, people will question Why am I actually here? and the worth of the brand will actually erode. Or on the other hand the brand becomes stronger representing a lifestyle while the physical clothing play a supporting role.
The experiences which were once silk are now Bangladesh polyester.
With Zika spreading in Brazil, Cuba still suffering, millions of people displaced, terror on high alert, and our environment on the brink of disaster - I fail to see how the benefits of these Resort collections outweigh the reality. Of course we need the dream, the escapism, but the experiences which were once silk are now Bangladesh polyester.
And for the 4 people who might be interested in the actual Dior collection, Read on:
The Swiss duo Lucie Meier and Serge Ruffieux conjured up a vibe of London girl cool, Parisian finesse, and a good spoonful of high class aristocracy. Set in the halls of Blenheim palace, built by the architect Sir John Vanbrugh in the early 1700’s, the collection brought back flashbacks of Dior’s English past -1954 with Christian Dior and 1958 with Yves Saint Laurent with Queen Margret front row.
I loved the yellow maxi dress - practical as it is season less - as well as the excessive layering and varied silhouettes: the puffy sleeves, the synched waist. The prints were also gorgeous reflecting an exotic history and refined spirit - the fox hunt print was wonderful. True sellout hits however were the black and gold rimmed booties, a potential alternative to the Gucci fur loafer for heavy duty wear!
Of course the house codes were reinstated with the bar jacket and new look elements, but were deconstructed and modernised reminding us that while Raf may have left the house - his vision for Dior is very much present. It wasn't only Raf we saw- there were elements from young super talent JW Anderson, as seen by the cropped, flared leather pants and uber puffy mutton sleeves, Mary Katranzou with the cosmos-embroidered maximal prints, on prints…. on prints, and Miuccia Prada due to the styling.
Thats the thing with Meier and Ruffieux - they are too good to be “place holders” for the next big-name designer, but they lack their own identity and a unified look. The collection at times felt sporadic and a bit all over the place with no clear direction. Overall, the Dior Resort 2017 collection deserved more attention and it is a shame it was overshadowed by trains, pubs, and noise, noise, noise. A fine job by a very talented and capable design team!
